All Phase Maintenance

About a week ago, we awoke to a horrible grinding sound coming from our outside compressor unit for our heating system.  We immediately turned our electric heat pump system to emergency heat (which powers down the outside compressor) and then went outside to discover this:

Our compressor was completely frozen over.  We’d had a rainstorm overnight, and while the temperature outside was just above freezing, the fan chilled the air just enough that the rain froze to the unit and then built up overnight.  The sound we heard was the fan blades chipping against the accumulated ice chunks on the inside of the unit.

I called Mike, our HVAC mechanic, and he recommended removing all the ice, then turning the unit back on for a minute to check for the noise.  If the fan ran smoothly, all was well.  If it continued to make the rattling sound, that meant that the blades had been bent by the ice, and we would have a somewhat costly repair on our hands.  So I headed out into the rain with my hairdryer and a scraper and de-iced the unit.

I turned the system back on, prepared to cut it back off immediately if necessary.  Fortunately for us, clearing the ice did the trick, and we had no further damage.  To be safe, I left the heat on the emergency setting until the rain stopped mid-day, so it would not freeze back over while we were out.  And in the future we will pay more attention to freezing-rain forecasts.  Running emergency heat over night may be an expensive proposition - but NOT as expensive as a compressor-parts replacement!

What do you think? Have you run across similar problems with this extra-cold winter?

Stiebel Eltron Accelera 300 Heat Pump Water Heater US $2,399.00 (0 Bid) Auction Ends: Saturday Sep-04-2010 12:36:23 PDT   | Watch this Item

GAYMAR 04553001 CAP AND VALVE ASSEMBLY FOR HEAT PUMPS US $39.99 Auction Ends: Saturday Sep-04-2010 12:47:39 PDT   | Watch this Item

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My quest to refinance my home mortgage continues. Rates are around 5.00% with no points for a 30 year fixed, last I checked. The biggest barrier home owners face (and that I am facing) is that falling home values make it difficult to meet minimum qualifications.

Loan to Value Ratio (LTV)

Loan to Value ratio is a ratio of between the amount of the loan, including a second mortgage, and the current market value of the house.

For example, if a borrower wants $180,000 to purchase or refinance a house worth $200,000, the LTV ratio is $180,000/$200,000 = 0.9 or 90%.

In the United States, conforming loans that meet Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac underwriting guidelines must have an LTV ratio of 80% or less. Higher LTV ratios indicate less equity and more risk for the lender. Accordingly, qualifications become much more stringent and many lenders aren’t willing to take the chance.

And as home values drop, many owners find themselves with an unfavorable LTV ratio despite attempts to build equity such as home improvements, upgrades, and aggressive payment plans.

Options for High LTV Ratios

So what happens when you can’t put 20% down or the value of your home has slipped? Traditionally, the borrower can pay for private mortgage insurance (PMI) or take out a home equity line of credit (HELOC).

Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI)

Private mortgage insurance is an additional fee paid by a borrower to protect the lender in case of default. This fee goes to an insurer who guarantees the payments.

PMI is calculated based on LVT ratio, credit score, and loan type.

For instance, take someone with a 95% LVT, good credit, and a 30 year fixed loan. Estimated PMI is 0.78% of the loan, annually. 0.0078 x $180,000 = $1404 per year = $117 per month.

Home Equity Line of Credit (HELOC)

A HELOC is a line of credit with a maximum amount, similar a credit card. You don’t receive a lump sum, but rather withdraw and repay the line over the agreed term. It features a variable interest rate and your home equity is used as collateral. HELOC’s can be used to pay the portion of the total loan in excess of 80% however it’s usually a much higher interest rate.

What do you think? What is your current LTV?
Image courtesy of WoodleyWonderWorks

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Soldering pipes (called sweating) is the standard way to join two or more pieces of regular copper pipe together.  A solder joint forms a strong, watertight seal that will last for decades or longer when done properly.  In fact, a proper solder joint is less likely to leak than the rest of the copper pipe, which can develop pinhole leaks do to chemical erosion.

For many homeowners the thought of plumbing anything is quite daunting.  We all envision our basements or living areas filling up with water due to some error or oversight in our work.  The truth is that basic plumbing, including sweating pipes as discussed in this article, is a relatively simple job that any motivated homeowner can tackle safely with only a few specialized tools.

This article covers the basics of joining two pipes together.  If you’re looking for more information, we highly recommend Stanley’s Complete Plumbing, which will walk you through this and many other topics in more detail than we can.  Stanley’s Compete Plumbing includes illustrations and detailed steps on an array of plumbing projects, and qualifies for free shipping (purchase over $25) on Amazon.

A note on permits & experience: Some jurisdictions require you to be a licensed plumber to perform plumbing work.  We are DIYers and not licensed plumbers.  This article is for general information.  You may wish to consult with a licensed plumber before undertaking plumbing work in your home or business.  In any event, use this information at your own risk.

Understanding Pipe and Fittings Basics

Most water pipes in a house are between 3/8″ and 3/4″ in diameter.   Main water lines are as large as 1-inch, while small lines (e.g., to a refrigerator icemaker) could be as small as 3/8-inch.  The nominal diameter of a pipe is always 1/8 inch less than the outside diameter.  Copper Pipe wall sizes vary with the size of the pipe such that the inside diameter is always approximately the nominal width.  Copper water pipe is sold in three different wall thicknesses (K, L, M), and can be rigid or soft pipe.  Sizes.com has a great article on copper pipe basics for more information.

In order to join two pieces of copper pipe together, you must use a sleeve (or other fitting, such as the T-joint shown below) which has an inside diameter that matches the outside diameter of the pipe.  In our picture examples below, the T-Joint and valve fit snugly over the copper pipe and are designed to be sweat soldered onto the pipe.  To join two pipes instead of three, you would use a sleeve instead of a T-joint.

Tools and Materials needed to Solder Pipes

The tools and materials list for standard sweat soldering isn’t long or complicated.  We’ve linked to several of the products on Amazon.  Everything is also available in your local big box store or plumbing supply shop.

1. Plumbing Solder (non-lead based).  Solder is sold by the ounce on a spool.  Solder melts at a much lower temperature than copper, which makes it suitable for joining two copper pipes under heat.
2. Copper Pipe Brush.  The brush is used to clean the inside of the fittings and the outside of pipes to prepare them for soldering.  Plumber’s sandcloth can be used as an alternative but this tool makes the job easy.
3. Small Propane Tank & Welding Striker.  Used to heat the pipe and fitting to be joined.
4. Plumber’s Flux.  Used to coat the pipes and fittings to prepare them for soldering.
5. Plumber’s Sandcloth.  Used to de-bur pipes.
6. Heat Resistant Pad.
7. Copper Pipe and Fittings.

Preparing the Plumbing Environment

This tutorial doesn’t cover sweating a joint that is already a part of home’s plumbing.  However, if you were going to work in that environment, these steps are important.  No matter the environment, you should always take precautions to protect the area where you will be heating the pipe with the propane torch.

• Turn off the main water to the house.
• Open the lowest possible valve in the house. (e.g., the utility sink in the basement) to drain all water from the pipes.  Water in the line will prevent the pipe from heating and will cause the installation to fail.  You may also need to open a pipe on the top floor of the house to relieve vacuum pressure.
• Disconnect any PVC plumbing from the nearby copper. (Newer homes may have a combination of PVC and copper piping).
• Protect objects around the joint area from heat.  You will be working with a propane torch that burns at over 1000 degrees.  Be sure there are no combustible materials nearby, and that you put up a heat guard between the torch and any flammable materials, such as wood studs.  An assistant may be appropriate.
• Ensure adequate ventilation in your work area. Open doors and windows and consider running a fan.
• Do as much work as possible at a bench. If you are making several joins, work as many of them out of the plumbing line as possible.

Preparing Copper Pipes for Soldering

• Step 1: Using the copper pipe brush, clean the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting. After cleaning, the pipes should be free of debris and appear shiny.

• Step 2: Inspect the pipe and the fitting for burs (small pieces of metal on the fitting or pipe that prevent an easy join).
• Step 3: Try dry fitting the connection to ensure they easily connect.  If they don’t fit easily and snugly, clean the pipes further using the copper pipe brush or sandcloth (shown below).

• Step 4: Once dry fitting is successful, separate the pipe and fitting and apply plumber’s flux to the outside of the pipe and inside of the fitting. During soldering, plumbing flux will evaporate and draw the solder into the joint, forming a tight seal all the way around the joint.

Soldering the Pipes

• Step 1: Light the propane torch and turn the flame to medium.  Note: Most torches will produce more flame when tilted downward.  Be careful to hold the torch in a consistent way.
• Step 2: Point the flame directly at the joint. The joint will heat up after about 20-60 seconds.

• Step 3: Touch the solder to the crease between the fitting and the pipe. When the joint is hot enough, the solder will melt and capillary action will pull the solder into the joint.  As the solder starts to melt, move it all the way around the joint.  When solder pools outside the joint, the joint is stable.
• Step 4: Turn off the heat and allow the pipe to cool.

Testing the Solder Joint

1. If you followed these instructions, the joint is likely very tight.  The only good way to test is to put pressure on the joint (turn on the water to the house).

More Plumbing Help

For more information on this and other plumbing topics, we highly recommend Stanley’s Complete Plumbing, which covers this topic in more detail and many other home plumbing scenarios.  Good luck with your plumbing!

What do you think? Tackled any plumbing projects in your own home?  Would you change anything here?

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My step-dad, Steve, taught me a lot of what I know about home improvement. So it wasn’t a big surprise when he told me about some custom furniture he was building. Even so, I was really impressed when I saw it in person.

Building Custom Furniture

Steve has only recently started building furniture and is still developing his skill set. So far, he’s put together an awesome coffee table and a night table. He built the coffee table with plans “from his head”. And the night table was reverse engineered to match one my folks already own.

The coffee table has an oak plywood top with 1-1/2″ piece of solid oak glued around the edge. You can see the routed edge cut into the solid oak. The wood is secured with strong pocket hole joints and the table features adjustable feet for any uneven floors.

The night table has a solid poplar top. Again, this table has a nice routed edge and pocket hole joints. The night table has a full extension drawer along the bottom.

Plans for Building Furniture

Steve is unique that he can build something without plans but I’d guess that most people enjoy having a specific set of instructions. Lots of sites offer plans for building your own furniture. Steve has been a Rockler customer for some time and recommends purchasing plans and materials from their site. They have concise plans that make it easy to complete your project.

Recommended Tools for Building Furniture

Steve has a great shop with a wide variety of tools and a setup that makes it easy to work. Aside from the typical shop tools, there are a few items that can really make building furniture easier.

• Kreg K3 Jig - The Kreg Jig makes it easy to securely join two pieces of wood with pocket hole joints. This jig is an invaluable part of Steve’s workshop.
• Router Kit - Steve uses a router to cut out an area on the face of a piece of wood giving it a professional looking edge.
• Spray Gun - A gravity fed, spray gun makes it easy to add a nice varnish finish.

Steve’s Contact Info

Steve is enjoying putting this furniture together and he hopes to generate a little side business. If you are interested in some custom built furniture, get in touch with him. Steve’s email address is CQD2003@aol.com.

What do you think? Ever build your own furniture? What tips do you have?

Practical Guide in Furniture Upholstery Custom Uphols.. US $10.00 Auction Ends: Sunday Sep-05-2010 13:36:54 PDT   | Watch this Item

Practical Guide in Furniture Upholstery: Custom Uphol.. US $10.00 Auction Ends: Sunday Sep-05-2010 13:36:54 PDT   | Watch this Item

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The DeWalt Track Saw Giveaway was a huge success. Thanks to everyone who blogged, left a comment, and subscribed.

Dewalt DC351k 28 Volt Cordless Track Saw No Batteries US $199.00 (0 Bid) Auction Ends: Saturday Sep-04-2010 19:34:49 PDT   | Watch this Item

Again, the competition was intense. We had 6,264 entries, with 524 comments and 19 blog entries. We used random.org to select the winner, and it chose Katherine from The Queen Speaks! Katherine wrote a blog post good for 75 entries. Congratulations!

What the Winner Gets

Katherine gets an amazing DeWALT 59? Track Saw Kit & Clips delivered right to her front door. The Dewalt Tracksaw is essentially a table saw replacement. It provides the same precision as a table saw, but at less than 20 lbs. is extremely portable. This tool is a must have for woodworkers and furniture/cabinet builders.

For everyone else, the Dewalt Track Saw is available at a variety of stores, and online. Amazon’s partner, CPO DeWALT, ships this item for only $9.95, and Amazon doesn’t charge sales tax in most places! Here’s the link:

• Dewalt 59? Track Saw Combo Kit

Blog Link Love

We had nineteen blog entries this contest, so there is lot of link love to spread around. Remember, blog entries must link back to One Project Closer to be counted. Here are the folks who entered:

• Weird…… like me!
• Paintergal’s Little Cottage
• Prepared Mommy
• BabasFarmLife
• Bean a mommy
• Tim’s Home Inspection & Improvement Blog
• Your Impact Matters
• The House Rules
• Simply Southern
• Exotic1
• Frolicking in My Happy Place
• Georgetown House
• This D*mn House
• Little Things in Life
• Lulu’s Cottage
• Life of an anesthesia wannabe
• The Queen Speaks
• Kgassner’s blog
• Forest Hall

Forest Hall, Paintergal’s Little Cottage, and This D*mn House each got an automatic 75 entries because they blogged about our last contest but were mistakenly not included.

Couple Housekeeping Points

I just wanted to put out a few reminders and suggestions about our contests.

• You can enter each contest by leaving a comment, subscribing via email, or writing about the giveaway on your own blog. And, doing all three gives you the best possible odds of winning. (86 entries!)
• Blog entries don’t need to be 1,000 words long (unless you want to write that much). A short simple post about our giveaway will suffice. However, you must link back to One Project Closer. Send us an email at oneprojectcloser@gmail.com if your not sure how to create links. We’ll help you.
• One comment per person please. Additional comments are removed before selecting a winner.
• Make sure you provide a legitimate email address as that’s how we’ll notify you when you win.

Skil Tool Giveaway

Our next giveaway starts in about one week. I won’t ruin the surprise but, this contest is sponsored by Skil. Be sure to check in for your chance to win.

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We’ve been using two Arrow Electromatic hot glue guns to fasten our eletric radiant heating wire to the cement slab in our basement. With over 1000 sq. ft. of heated area, we’ve gone through about 100 sticks of glue on the installation so far.

Last night, after five sticks of glue in one of the Arrow guns, it erupted in a shower a sparks and fizzles that made the gun look (and feel) more like a plasma rifle. I escaped unharmed.  As best as I can tell, a small amount of the hot glue seeped from the front of the gun back into the internal wiring, shorting out the circuit somewhere. It was an impressive sight, and at first led me to criticize Arrow for shoddy manufacturing. That is, until a thought about it some more…

The Arrow hot glue gun is equipped with a plastic flip-out piece on the front of the gun that allows the gun to be set on a flat service with the hot metal tip facing down (and trigger facing up)  But, when you’re fastening as much heating elements as we are, it’s much easier just to throw the gun on its side between uses. Obviously, I did that one too many times.

If I had it, I would love to check the instruction booklet to see if it includes a warning about leaving the unit in a non-upright position between uses. (I opened the gun and promptly threw it in the trash).  I’ll give Arrow the benefit of the doubt that they did include that in their booklet. Of course, I would prefer the gun didn’t have this limitation.  In any event, I’m going to write them and let them know the story. Perhaps they’ll be kind enough to replace the gun.

Hot Glue Gun Safety Tips

Here’s a few hot glue gun safety tips everyone should follow:

• Follow all safety instructions included with the gun.
• Never use glue guns in damp or wet areas.
• Never use glue guns around combustible materials or anything that will ignite below 450 degrees.
• Keep the glue gun away from children, especially when on/hot.
• Work in an area where the cord is not likely to be caught on clothing or cause the gun to fall over.
• If possible, work on a circuit with ground fault protection.
• Only use glue designed and approved for your model gun.
• Never leave a glue gun plugged in and unattended.
• Always use the gun in a downward-facing direction to avoid hot glue contact with your skin / a short-circuit.
• Don’t touch the hot glue or the hot end of the glue gun.  At 380 degrees, it’ll leave a heck of a burn.

What do you think?  Ever have a tool erupt in a shower of sparks?

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SKil has a new tool called the Power Cutter. It’s a handy tool that includes some great features. Skil was kind enough to send us one for review. If you want one for yourself, Amazon sells the Skil Power Cutter for $42.44 with free shipping!

Skil Power Cutter Description

The Skil Power Cutter is a small, light-weight, cordless, cutting device. It comes with an Energy Star, lithium-ion battery that holds charge for up to 18 months. This tool weighs less than 1 lb. but can cut through tons of different materials like carpet and vinyl flooring. I’ve used this to cut through heavy cardboard and plastic packaging. The Auto Sharp blade slices right through.

Skil Power Cutter Specifications

• 3.6V Lithium Ion Battery - holds charge for 18 months
• 1-1/2″ diameter hardened steel blade
• Weighs less than 1 lb.
• Battery gauge lets you know when it’s fully charged
• Built-in hang hole for easy storage
• Included smart charger lets you leave the Power Cutter on the charger without damaging the battery

Skil Power Cutter Pros and Cons

Pros

There are several things I really like about this cutter. The biggest and most important benefit is that it easily, cuts through lots of materials without a lot of force from the user. I ordered a package online that arrived in that frustrating, clam-shell plastic that is so difficult to remove. The Power Cutter easily cut the plastic. Here are some more great features.

• Auto Sharp blade keeps the blade sharp and makes clean cuts
• Lithium Ion battery holds charge well
• Blade guard and safety button prevent accidents

Cons

This is a great tool that does what it claims. With that said, I have two small gripes.

• The safety button would be more convenient if it was located on top near the energy gauge making it easier to press.
• Sometimes the blade guard catches. When that happens you just pull back slightly to clear the blade and guard. It’s a small price for properly shielding the blade.

What do you think? Anyone own this tool? What do you cut with it?

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With mortgage rates at 4 year lows, refinancing has again become attractive to many homeowners.  While none of us knows with certaintly where rates will go in 2009, anyone with an adjustable rate loan or a fixed rate loan with an interest rate at 5.75% or more can take advantage of 5% market rates today and achieve a payback period of around 12-14 months.

Homeowners that also own one or more invesment properties are likely considering refinancing their investment property mortgages in addition to their primary residence.  One seemingly promising option is to roll all of the loans into a single blanket mortgage loan (a loan secured by more than one property).  The goal: obtain a lower interest rate by borrowing a larger single sum, and simplify monthly payments.

While appealing on the surface, blanket mortgage loans suffer drawbacks for both borrowers and lenders, making them unattractive for most situations.  Here’s why:

Blanket Mortgage Drawbacks

1. Primary residences and investment properties have different risk levels, leading to a higher blanket loan interest rate. Default rates on primary residences are lower because people view their own home as more important than an investment property.  In difficult times, people pay their primary residence mortgages first to avoid losing their homestead.  Primary residences also take benefit of additional Government programs that help people stay current on payments in difficult times, and may be backed by Government insurance.  Investment properties don’t enjoy as much owner commitment or Government support as primaries.  As a result, mortgaging an investment property and a primary residence together will likely lead to a higher overall interest rate on the loan, negating any savings gained by borrowing a larger single sum.
2. Selling one of the properties is more difficult. Since both properties are collateral for the blanket mortgage, selling one property necessitates refinancing the other, leading to higher overall selling costs and a potential higher interest rate based on market conditions at the time.
3. Defaulting on the loan jeopardizes both properties.  Since a blanket mortgage is securitized by both properties, a default on payments puts both of those properties at risk. 

Blanket Mortgage Alternatives

Instead of looking for a blanket loan, there are two reasonable alternatives to achieve virtually the same objectives:

1. If you have sufficient equity in one of the properties, borrow against only that property and pay off the loan(s) on the other properties.  In essence, you are financing all properties with only one loan (or possibly a first and second loan on the same property), but the second and subsequent properties do not serve as collateral for the loan.
2. Refinance each loan individually.  While there are additional closing costs associated with closing the extra loan, in this case, these costs are well worth it for the protection multiple loan vehicles provides.

When Blanket Mortgage Loans are Appropriate

Blanket mortgage loans are appropriate when there is a sufficiently large and similar asset class that is to be collateral for the loan.  The simplest example of this is when a builder borrows money from a bank to build multiple homes in a new subdivision.  In this case, the builder may be able to structure a loan that allows him to pay back a portion of the loan each time he sells a property without needing to refinance the loan.

Since most individual properties owners aren’t in this situation, they can’t, and shouldn’t, take advantage of a blanket loan.

Image courtesy of C. W. Cohenour.

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Have you ever heard of soft close drawers? I had my first experience with soft close drawers this past week and, it seems odd to say, but they are pretty cool. Soft close drawers have quickly become a very popular addition to many kitchen and bathroom drawers and even cabinets. I recorded a quick demonstration so you can see how they function.

How Soft Close Drawers Work

Soft close drawers have a spring mechanism embedded in the drawer runners. After the drawer reaches a certain point on the runner, the spring acts to slowly pull the drawer closed. Even if you slam the drawer, a shock absorber slows the momentum of the drawer, causing it to close in a smooth, quiet fashion.

Problems with Soft Close Drawers

People joke that the only problem with soft close drawers is that you become accustomed to them and start slamming all other drawers. But, there seems to be one other complaint. Some soft close drawers do not close well unless you put some force behind it. This is could be caused by unlevel drawer runners that encourage the drawer to remain open.

What do you think? Do you have soft close drawers? Do you like them?

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Hardwood floors have become one of the most popular upgrades for today’s homes, and installation is no longer just for professionals.  Over the last 10 years, DIY hardwood installation has skyrocketed as lumber companies looking to cut out the middle man market directly to consumers.  Basic hardwood installations are the perfect candidate for a do-it-yourselfer’s weekend project.  The floor to the right is a perfect example of a relatively easy project to execute with the right tools.

We’ve featured the tools we like most for the job and highlighted the links from Amazon.com. There’s a list at the end of this article where all the tools are consolidated into one place for easy reference.  We like Amazon for their favorable shipping policies (often free) and no sales tax in most places, making them a good choice for buying tools online.

The remainder of this article assumes you have a basic understanding of installing hardwood floors and what you’ll need to complete the job.  If you don’t have any idea where to start, We suggest getting a good reference.  We highly recommend Stanley’s Complete Flooring Book.  Stanley’s covers installation and features of a wide range of flooring types (not just hardwood installation), and so is a useful reference even beyond your first installation project.  If you’ve settled on installing hardwoods, read on for all the other tools you’ll need for the perfect installation.

Recommended Hardwood Flooring Tools

#1) Hardwood Flooring Toe Nailer

The most important tool for the DIY hardwood flooring installer is the hardwood flooring nailer, also called a toe nailer because of the way it drives cleats or staples through the edge of a hardwood flooring board into the subfloor or joist below. 

Hardwood flooring nailers fall into two overall categories: manual and pneumatic (air-powered) nailers.  We highly recommend a pneumatic nailer.  While manual nailers are cheaper, they are hard on the installer, tend to under-drive fasteners and split boards, and may produce an overall looser hardwood installation (leaving small gaps between the boards).  Pneumatic flooring nailers are a bit more spendy, but well worth the additional price to protect the flooring investment.

Unfortunately, pneumatic hardwood flooring nailers tend to be expensive ($400+ for a brand name, high quality nailer).  We’ve written an extensive article of two hardwood flooring nailers we recommend (a Bostitch and a Porter Cable version of the same air-powered tool).  For DIYers, Amazon also sells a much less expensive Hardcore Tools Pneumatic Hardwood Flooring Nailer.  We’re very impressed with the very high reviews this tool gets even though it doesn’t enjoy wide brand name recognition.  Plus, it comes with a carrying case and the other two don’t.  If you’re planning on doing a single home’s worth of hardwood installations, we think this air nailer is your best bet for the job. 

#2) Finish Nailer & Compressor Combo Kit

The beginning and end boards in a hardwood flooring job cannot be installed with the hardwood flooring (toe) nailer because the toe nailer cannot fit very close to either the start or the end wall in a room.  In these cases, a finish nailer can be used to secure the boards in place by performing a toe nail function or by top nailing the boards.  A finish nailer will also be required for the installation of the baseboard and quarter-round or shoemolding trim.

We are huge fans of two reconditioned finish nailer and compressor combo kits available on Amazon.  Both of these kits offer a compressor (which you will need to power the hardwood flooring nailer and the finish nailer), a finish nailer, a brad nailer, and a crown stapler.  The two reconditioned kits are below.  We are slightly biased toward the Bostitch for its slightly cheaper price.

• Reconditioned Bostitch Three Nailer and Compressor Combo Kit
• Reconditioned Porter Cable Three Nailer and Compressor Combo Kit 

#3) Mitre Saw

If you don’t already own a decent mitre saw, a hardwood flooring installation is the perfect time to purchase one.  Mitre saws range in capabilities and price.  For hardwood flooring, you need only a basic mitre saw capable of making 90 degree cuts and the occasional 25-45 degree cut to work around an obstacle. 

If your goal is only to complete this hardwood project, we recommend an inexpensive saw like this Factory-reconditioned Ryobi 10 inch Mitre Saw with Laser Guide.  If you’re looking for a mitre saw that will last for years to come and work in all types of projects, we suggest this Reconditioned Makita 10-inch Dual Slide Compound Miter Saw with Laser Guide.

#4) Jamb Saw

There will be places in a hardwood flooring installation where the trim pieces around doors needs to be cut a little higher than the existing floor so that hardwood can fit underneath.  There is no need to remove the molding from the doors; you can simply cut the molding in place using a jamb saw. 

Jamb saws come in manual and power models.  We prefer the hand tool because it is about 10% of the price of the power tool and the amount of cutting required in the typical installation does not warrant the fully automatic version.  We’ve used and really like the Irwin Pro Touch Flush Cut Reversible Jamb Saw.  At under $10, it makes the job easy at a price tag that doesn’t break the bank.  If you’re hung up on getting the power tool version, check out this Reconditioned Bosch Power Hand Saw that will do the job just fine.

#5) Table Saw

It is possible, although not probable, that you can perform a complete hardwood installation without a table saw.  A table saw is only required if the last board in a room cannot be laid at full width.  For example, if you are laying 3 inch wide hardwoods, and only a 2 inch space remains at the end of the room, you will need to rip a board length-wise to complete the installation, and this requires a table saw. 

During installations where we haven’t had a table saw available, we simply lay the entire floor and then run to a friends’ house or local woodworking shop to get the last board ripped to size.  If you’re doing multiple rooms or foresee a need for a table saw in the future, we recommend this DeWALT DW745 Heavy Duty 10-inch Table Saw.  The saw boasts plenty of horsepower for a variety of woodworking tasks and is a great addition to a DIYers tool kit.

#6) Miscellaneous Tools

In addition to the tools above, it’s also very good to have the following tools on hand:

• a 35-foot tape measure to ensure accurate measurement & cuts,
• a quality chalk line for setting a mark for the first board,
• a nail set in case you need to sink a few nails by hand, and
• an additional rubber mallet for tapping boards into place.

Complete List of Required Hardwood Floor Installation Tools

If you’re shopping for these tools, here’s our consolidated list of recommended hardwood flooring tools from above (note, we’ve picked our recommended option from each section.  See the individual section above for more info).

1. Hardcore Tools Pneumatic Hardwood Flooring Nailer
2. Reconditioned Bostitch Three Nailer and Compressor Combo Kit
3. Reconditioned Ryobi 10 inch Mitre Saw with Laser Guide
4. Irwin Pro Touch Flush Cut Reversible Jamb Saw
5. DeWALT DW745 Heavy Duty 10-inch Table Saw (optional)
6. Stanley FatMax 35-foot Tape Measure
7. Irwin Chalk Line
8. Stanley Nail Set
9. Rubber Mallet
10. Stanley’s Complete Flooring Book (optional)

Our favorite part about a hardwood flooring installation is the number of tools you can purchase that are reused on later projects.  With the exception of the hardwood flooring nailer, every tool in this list is used on dozens of other household projects that you’ll likely tackle in the future.

Best of luck with your hardwood installation!

What to you think?  Do you own any of these tools?  What has your experience been with them?

First image courtesy of Juhansonin.

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